The old Singapore River was the lifeblood of the island's entrepot trade. From the far corners of the earth, ships arrived and anchor out at sea, discharging their cargo onto lighters or bumboats that ferry it to the river banks where it was unloaded by coolies. These tough labourers hauled the goods such as bags of rice, jars of preserves or crates of manufactured goods on their backs and loaded them onto lorries for distribution, or storage in the warehouses that lined the river. The stink from the river at low tide could be quite formidable to the casual visitor, but was the smell of money to the towkays who owned the trading houses in the area. Today, after the relocation of the old businesses and a cleanup operation stretching over decades, the river is back to its pristine condition as it would have been when Stamford Raffles, the citystate's founder, first stepped ashore in 1819 to establish a trading post for the East India Company. Raffles had intended that the port would be the meeting place where people of all colours and tongues could trade free of duty or hindrance. Now it also attracts tourists from around the world who cruise the waters in the pseudo-bumboats and take in the spectacular sights.
The pristine waters of the river are now the preserve of converted bumboats ferrying sightseeing tourists.
A cruise boat leaves the jetty for an exhilarating trip downriver and out to sea.
Catching the sun and some breathtaking views from the open deck.
Little India is the historical and cultural hub of the Indian community and the colours, sounds and scents of India greet the visitor at every turn. From colourful saris to fragrant perfumes and spices, from the strains of a sitar to the cacophony of traffic, Little India is a heady mix of shopping, sightseeing and feasting for tourists and locals alike. Just as Chinatown and Kampong Glam each reflects the ethnic diversity of Singapore but with a predominantly Chinese and Malay character respectively, Little India is no different. Here the Chinese and Malays do a roaring trade side by side with their Indian compatriots, transcending language and cultural barriers, in apparel, food catering, hospitality, jewellery, electronics, art and crafts, etc.
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Rows of old shophouses jostling for custom against the backdrop of a modern mall, as pedestrians weave haphazardly through traffic.
All dressed up with colourful overhead decorations brightly lit at night in the annual lightup for Deepavali, the festival of lights.
The Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple set in lush grounds with public housing in the distance.
Colourful statues of Hindu deities on the perimeter wall of the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple.
Explore the many facets of Indian cuisine at eateries big and small in Little India. From fiery curries originating in the Tamil south of the Indian subcontinent to delicately spiced cuisine from the northern regions.
Northern Indian specialties like biryani and tandoori chicken fit for a maharajah are readily available. Vegetarians will not miss out on their dosai, vadai and apom, and those needing a quick fix can head for the eateries modelled on western fastfood joints.
A popular Indian dish is fishhead curry, which has spawned other versions such as the ones served in Chinese food outlets.
Mainstays like prata and murtabak have their following in restaurants and cooked food centres, where popular snacks such as curry puffs and goreng pisang (fried banana fritters) are also to be found.
A bustling cooked food centre offering a wide range of Indian, Malay and Chinese dishes. Favourite drinks include lime juice and “teh tarik” (pulled tea), a frothy milk tea repeatedly “pulled” between two large metal mugs.
Come sundown this plaza will be packed with diners chilling out under the swaying palms and romantic lights.
Bargains galore at this clothing store spilling its jeans and bags onto the sidewalk.
Ornate floor tiles that have seen better days still echo the splendour of the past.
Unloading produce to stock the small groceries serving residents, and visitors drawn to the freshness and authenticity of the ingredients.
This granite carving adorning a restaurant entrance, is a prelude to the wealth of art, handicraft, antiques, and sacred objects awaiting your discovery. A rewarding destination for the culture lover or souvenir hunter.
The Temple of a Thousand Lights, aka the Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple on Race Course Road, off Serangoon Road, is home to Singapore's 15m high statue of the Lord Buddha and a relic said to be carved from the bark of a Bodhi tree under which the Buddha meditated.
Kampong Glam is no kampong now. The old kampong (Malay for “village”) of idyllic living under swaying coconut palms is largely gone, but the sense of unhurried pace and community spirit lingers on. Despite losing many old buildings to the wrecking ball, the area still retains much of its old world charm of narrow streets and picturesque houses, thanks to several conservation programmes.
The restored structures, lined in the shadow of newly developed highrise towers, house shops and restaurants of every description, offering the visitor a wide sampling of Malay heritage and Arab muslim influences. Must see attractions include the Sultan Mosque and the Malay Heritage Centre. Click pictures to view full size
The Sultan Mosque with its resplendent dome was under renovation when this blog was posted. To be updated.
The Malay Heritage Centre showcases the rich cultural heritage and history of the Malay people through video presentations, live performances and a collection of paintings and artefacts spread over several galleries of the museum proper.
The Malay Heritage Centre is the restored Istana Kampong Glam and was once the palace of the Sultan of Singapore. “Istana” is the Malay word for palace. It is sited on a sprawling patch next to the Sultan Mosque.
Bussorah Street pedestrian strip for exotic shopping finds and taste sensations.
An oasis of calm for a leisurely stroll in the dappled shade.
You can't miss this life size robot beckoning you into the toy museum.
Office blocks and condos towering over the conserved properties.
Behind the wall lies a world of dining on authentic Malay cuisine set in opulence and splendour fit for royalty.
Furniture inlaid with ornate tiles lends a touch of authenticity to the setting for Turkish cuisine.
Flipping prata in a Muslim restaurant famous for dum biryani, murtabak and other delicacies. Eat in, take out or drive by, the establishment does a roaring trade.
The Sultan Mosque dominates the neighbourhood with its golden dome and minarets.
Grave stones lying forlorn in a Muslim cemetery on the edge of Kampong Glam.
What is striking about Chinatown is that it is not all Chinese. Here you will find, for instance, Chinese, Malay and Indian places of worship sitting cheek by jowl in blissful harmony, making it possible for tourists to soak up the essence of three cultures in one go.
The current character of Chinatown is partly the result of heeding the call of early conservationists like architects from the early 60s, and the work of United Nations seconded experts on urban renewal. The messy sights, sounds and smells of old Chinatown are gone, replaced by a somewhat sterile environment packed with swanky shops, homes and offices, and the ubiquitous tourist joints.
Many age-old businesses have been edged out of town due to, understandably, the higher rents for restored premises, but enough remain to make this a vibrant stop for medicinal herbs, dried foods, preserves, antiques and other buys.
Also thriving are restaurants and street food vendors who are holding their own against the influx of upstarts offering ethnic taste sensations from around the world.
Despite its changed character, diehard fans swear by Chinatown when it comes to certain street foods and traditional medicine for authenticity and value.
Temple Street corner packed with tourist souvenir stalls fronting a grand old dame with long balconies where residents of yore relaxed watching the world go by, occasionally dropping a basket on a string to fish up some noodle or dim sum from the hawkers plying the street below.
The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum draws devotees and other crowds to view its Buddha tooth relic and sacred objects on display.
Video: Temple ceremony
Sri Mariamman Temple is one of the oldest and largest Hindu temples in Singapore.
A statue of a rickshaw puller in the concourse of China Square mall, a repurposed property housing shops, eateries and offices.
Maxwell Food Centre offers a wide variety of popular local fare at affordable prices.
